Nelson’s Prophecy
Last night Jenny and Billy decided they didn’t want to wake up early to do the last game drive, but I was in. I was woken up at 4:15 to the sounds of lions – having been around them for the last eight days their sounds are recognizable. They sounded very near by but I kept telling myself that Johnson said the roar of a male’s calls can travel up to 5 mi but they sure sounded close. I was unable to go back to sleep so I laid there listening.
At 5:50 I shown my flashlight out the tent so that the Maasai guard would come for me. I’ll be honest that I thought about not going because I was scared to death to walk the .2 mile up to the main tent, as the only thing the guard carries is a stick and a dagger for protection.
I said to the guard as soon as I saw him, “Did you hear the lions?”
“Yes,” he replied.
“Are they close by?” I enquired hoping for a negative response.
“Yes,” he confirmed.
As my heart raced faster and my eyes scanned both sides of the path I was relieved to see other guests fall in behind me…At least I wouldn’t be the first man down.
Johnson and I sped off chasing down what was quickly proving to be one of the most glorious sunrises I have ever seen. Every minute the sky was growing more and more vivid with the pinks and oranges stretching well beyond the horizon. Johnson said he hasn’t seen a sunrise as beautiful as this one in years. Simply Spectacular!
Minutes into our drive a call came in. Johnson turned around looked at me and with a huge grin relayed the unbelievable news, “There are two leopards with a fresh kill up a tree.”
“Are you kidding me?” I responded.
“No, but it’s far away.” he said.
I figured that was the perfect time to give Johnson the same lesson we gave Brian.
“Well then Johnson you better drive it like you stole it.”
No explanation needed apparently because he hit the gas…
As we came ripping around a bend Bully and Limpy were sitting there, just the two of them. Johnson stopped, I took a few pictures and while it was nice with no other cars around, I was anxious to see the leopards so I kind of urged him on. He assured me that the leopards were going nowhere since they had their kill up a tree, they wouldn’t leave it.
As we continued on we came across a herd of elephants, including two babies and again Johnson stopped. While the sunrise made for beautiful photos, I told Johnson I really wanted to get to the leopards before everyone else does and we end up having to wait ( we had limited time this AM). He assured me the rangers, who let him know, didn’t tell everyone. Still he got it and began racing to the scene.
We passed a truck from another camp that was heading towards us, clearly they didn’t know about the leopards so Johnson was correct in his statement which made me feel better.
We then passed another truck stopped looking at some wildebeast. I mentioned to Johnson that that truck had to be wondering where we were headed to, racing across the savanna like we were trying to outrun a spreading fire. Funny thing is not even thirty seconds later that guide called Johnson asking exactly that – where was he going so fast, so Johnson had to tell him about the leopards. I told Johnson he should have told him that he was just giving his guest driving lessons and she doesn’t know the difference between the gas and brake pedals.
Before we knew it, there were trucks flanking us on both sides racing along with us. The guys that Johnson told shared it with other guides and so on.
As the area where the leopards were appeared, it was obvious it was no secret. There was already the max allowance of five cars there and we were now fourth in a line of arriving cars but Johnson didn’t follow behind them when they pulled in to wait. Instead, he passed them and continued on about a half mile then turned in. I was confused by this but as we pulled in and almost came to a stop the ranger flashed us, he was allowing Johnson in without waiting his turn in line. I guess It pays to have a guide that has been in the conservancy for fifteen years.
Whatever the reason was we were allowed ahead of all the other cars, I was thrilled but I was also very sad that Billy but Jenny especially, were missing it – I knew Jenny was going to be beyond upset. Last night when we were finishing dinner Nelson, a server and soon-to-be guide, upon hearing they weren’t going this morning, jokingly said to me, “Well then I hope you see something that will make them jealous they didn’t go.” I think when he said that it gave Jenny pause but she still decided not to go because she, like Billy, was worried about the long travel day we had today.
The leopards – a mother and son – Sankuet (shy) and Oloshipa (happy) were out in the open, Oloshipa was feeding on part of the kill while Sankuet was lazing about grooming herself.
At one point they began to tussle with each other.
Eventually Sankuet got up and walked over to the tree where the freshly killed gazelle was hanging. She began scratching at the ground and Johnson explained she was trying to cover the blood trail she left behind so the hyenas wouldn’t catch hold of the scent. Meanwhile Oloshipa was prancing around with a leg in his mouth and play stalking his mother.
Because there were so many cars waiting, after about ten minutes the ranger told Johnson it was our turn to move out. Our time with them was sadly short but oh so wonderful. “Magic” Johnson, so he is nicknamed, certainly lived up to his moniker today!
Johnson offered to take me by the hippos on our way back to camp but I told him no need – that I didn’t want to mar the memories of that incredible experience.
Back at camp went about as badly as I feared. Jenny was so upset she had missed out on it all. Tears poured down her face as she pointed out how she had made every other game drive and that she only didn’t go because of the very long travel day ahead of us… She was beyond disappointed and I believe regretful.
We said our goodbyes to everyone at camp and Nelson insisted we would be back explaining to us that, “You leave a footprint in our heart and on the land…” Touching for sure.
Johnson drove us to the airstrip where we awaited the arrival of our bush plane. When we pulled in I had noticed a group of three guys with motorcycles hanging out in the shade. As the plane was approaching one of them jumped on their motorcycle and went speeding down the runway in the direction of the descending aircraft – he was chasing off any animals on the airstrip-. He then turned around and raced back just ahead of the landing aircraft to keep the airstrip clear-crazy!
You gotta love these bush pilots. They are rugged and totally nonchalant. This time our pilot was a female, complete with long flashy fingernails. The copilot told me they had slept in Samburu last night and had already made five flights by 11:30.
As we waved goodbye to Johnson and the plane was a few minutes off of Mother Earth the cockpit warning alarm sounded loudly, “TERRAIN! PULL UP!” Not exactly what you want to hear in flight. Neither pilot seemed the least bit concerned about it, they punched a few buttons, turned a couple dials and continued on their way…
There are no towers at any of these airstrips or anyone guiding them to where nearby aircraft are. They are relying on GPS and radar. Using that info, the copilot visually locates the planes in air and points them out to the pilot. Kind of wild flying.
The approach to the small domestic airport is an unnerving one for sure as you head straight for the high rises in the city center before banking to make the landing. Once again the warning sounded loudly but this time it blared, “TOO LOW! TERRAIN!” And once again the pilots seemed completely unfazed.
We went straight to the hotel inside the airport compound. We once again had to pass through three security checkpoints before checking in to our hotel. Our scheduled 3:10 AM flight was delayed until 4:30 AM so we slept until 12:30 and then headed to the terminal. With the delay, we would miss our connecting flight in Istanbul to Brussels but thankfully Turkish Airlines rebooked us on the next flight.
We are spending the next four nights in the Netherlands. The first night we will be in Maastricht revisiting the city Jenny lived in for university for three years. We will then head to Eindhoven to spend the last three nights. Billy and I will celebrate our 30th wedding anniversary there with some of my oldest and dearest friends but the real purpose of this part of the trip is to see Zach Bryan in concert again. He is playing at Philips Stadium in Eindhoven. He will be the first musician, outside of one Dutch musician, to hold a concert at the iconic soccer stadium.
Our time in Africa was beyond rewarding. To think we almost cancelled it. The sights we saw, the connections we made, the things we learned, the pleasures we got were once again life changing. I will dream of the the babies of the Izuba family, the amber eyes of Namunyak, the spotted cubs of the Offbeat pride, and the final morning sunrise for days and years to come…
Asante Sana Rwanda and Kenya for blessing us with incredible memories.
Wandering Amerrickans 