Oman Day 2

Rashid Doesn’t Know Me!

Jenny and I both died yesterday, actually Jenny before me. After checking in, we never left our room. It helped that we got upgraded to a killer suite with a lot of room and an awesome view and that the bed was super comfortable.

Of course, just as I was getting ready to pass out and in true Dom fashion, I noticed I screwed up the reservation for the pick up date for our rental car BUT thank goodness I noticed it. Unfortunately, it was after the shop had closed, HOWEVER, the owner was awesome and after a few texts back and forth, and the offer of a small penalty fee on my part, we were back on schedule and he agreed to deliver it to me at the hotel at 8:00 AM.

I woke at 7:00 to make sure I was up in case he came early since I was so appreciative of him accommodating my screw up. At 7:50 our car showed up and I was pleasantly surprised at not only the condition of the vehicle, but the fact he had upgraded me for free when he learned I was planning on driving into the desert to stay in a Bedouin camp. He told me I would need something with more power than the car I had reserved. Again, kindness and consideration beyond what was necessary. When I asked him if there was anything I need to look out for while driving in Oman, he said, “speed cameras.” Oh boy…one of my downfalls, I drive with a lead foot so this was going to be a serious lesson in self-control, something Nasser was saying is one of the key components of fasting for Ramadan, so I guess when in Rome…

By the time Jenny and I got it together, stopped at the ATM for needed cash, the fuel station to tank up the car and tank up our snack stash, we were on the road 2 1/2 hours after my intended departure time – that meant we were cutting quite a few planned stops as we had to be at our destination at 3:00. And of course, five minutes into the drive, we took the wrong exit as Jenny tried to get used to the navigation system. The good news is it was not too much of a detour and we were quickly back on the expressway making our way south.

It wasn’t even 20 minutes later we started into mountainous terrain. The mountains were like waves in a rough sea with craggy tops successively getting higher in between dropping into the troughs of the sands. It must have taken forever to move a short distance as one climbed to the top, only to drop back down, before having to climb to an even higher top before continuing the process all over again.

The expressway was excellent and every few miles or so were the speed cameras I was warned about. We bopped along, listening to Jenny’s country music playlist, remarking on the incredible scenery. About an hour or so later we dropped down onto the coastline and enjoyed the varying shades of blue, the sea here offered.

I decided that we would cut all of the drives back into the wadis as these were going to be the most time consuming. I opted for a short stop at Bimmah Sinkhole, a natural limestone cavern that fell in and left a large hole in the ground with a natural pool. It is a popular swimming spot and on this day in the mid-80s, there were plenty of people enjoying the waters.

The second stop I opted for was to take a drive through the coastal town of Sur and see the dhow boat factory. The GPS took us off the highway sooner then need be, but Jenny said she was actually happier with this side trip over seeing any of the wadis as we were driving through areas that showed a real town. The funny thing was we were gobsmacked at the houses being built – opulent (and I mean in an over-the-top, borderline gaudy sort of way) McMansions crammed in one after another with flashy gates and added facade decorations. It was so interesting because most of what we had seen in Oman really had a sense of understated elegance to it.

The dhow factory was a quick stop in just seeing the carcasses of fading ships and a few that were still floating. At one point I wanted to take another look so I decided to take the roundabout back around and when I pulled over and waved the other cars by, the first car in line quickly pulled over and was getting ready to exit his car when I continued on. Jenny told me I needed to stop waving at people as a way of saying sorry as they think I am in need of help. Lesson two in self-control – stop being an apologetic driver.

Back on the expressway, we came across our first, “what the heck” moment when we came past a group of camels. Of course that required a stop to the side of the road, and unlock Iceland where there is not even four inches to pull over, Oman’s highways have huge breakdown lanes. We had a great laugh as Jenny tried her hand at camel talk and actually got them to swing around and giver her their full attention.

As we got closer to where we were supposed to meet our camp hosts, we had a small glitch in communications as well as exact pin drops on our map, causing us to pass the meeting spot. As I was turning around to head back, a car pulled in right behind me almost blocking me from moving. A man rolled his window down, welcomed us to Oman and asked if we were OK. I guardedly told him we were fine. He exited his car and walk towards us, asking me where I was from and where I was going. I told him we were from the US but even more guardedly was elusive as to where we were going and that I had just missed a turn. I think he sensed my bit of uneasiness, though I was trying hard to hear the words of Nasser, he held his hand to his heart, welcomed us again to his country, bowed his head, backed up, turned around and left. This was exactly the kindness in offers to help that Nasser had told us about.

A moment up the road, another car heading towards us flashed their lights, slowed down and rolled their window down; it was our camp host Rashid. He had seen us pass by and waved at us but we failed to stop and so he was coming after us – too funny. We pulled into the drive, next to a larger SUV with an older fair-skinned gentleman who was attaching a GoPro to the outside of his windshield. I checked with him as to what camp he was going to and when he named our planned camp, Jenny and I both let out an audible sigh of relief that we indeed were in the right place.

Rashid pulled in behind us, got out of his car and to our total astonishment grabbed my hand and shook it (shaking hands with the opposite sex is not done in the Muslim world). When I told him my name and that I had been the one texting him like mad and then apologized for being a “crazy American,” he astonished us even more with his complete and utter delight that we were Americans. He emphatically and excitedly proclaimed, ”I have only had four of your kind stay with me before. You make the five.”( I had to think about that one for a second…).

When he assumed that we would be leaving our car and riding in with him, I surprised him by telling him that I was actually planning on driving in. He first questioned the car but I assured him the rental agency had given me this car with the belief that it would be fine for the desert trek. He then questioned my ability to handle the conditions when I told him I was confident I could handle it he told me that the guide would stop and switch cars with me (he was driving a Jeep Wrangler) when the hard part came. We both chuckled, me at him for his lack of confidence and him at me for basically calling out that lack of confidence.

Tires deflated to the proper PSI, and off we went in a three car caravan with the seemingly austere GoPro-toting Austrian (who had driven in the deserts of Namibia before) opting to take the rear. A few miles in, the hard-pack flats started to give rise to softer hills and Jenny started to feel queazy as the car slip-slided though the sands. Nothing could be done at this point so she had no choice but to grin and bear it.

A few more miles and the sand got looser and deeper and the dunes got bigger. We bottomed out a few times but we kept on moving until we got to the final climb when we both said, “Oh boy,” Jenny leaning in towards the gear shift to avoid the rather large drop off on her side when midway up, we came to a dead stop, like we had hit a wall. Luckily Mr. Austria maneuvered around me as I quickly threw the car in reverse, got to some flatter land and took aim at the hill again following a different track. We crested the hill, blew past Mr. Austria (who had actually stopped and gotten out his truck thinking he was going to have to come and help me), and pulled in to the camp where I gave the guide two big thumbs up, receiving them in return along with a big smile. Getting out of the car I cajoled him in a half-joking but matter of fact way by asking, “I did well?” “Sorry. No English.” Jenny, who had already perched herself on the stable ground of the tent’s deck, hollered over in Arabic, “Jamil.” He turned, smiled and said, “Ah Jamil, Yes you very well.” Jenny and I figured the guide must have been confident in my driving and did not feel the need to switch as Rashid had suggested he would. Ahhh….Sweet Redemption…

The sun was getting low in the sky and the others (there were now 6 more) decided to go dune bashing to watch the sunset. After our ride in, Jenny decided staying with two feet on the ground was how we would watch it so we climb up the largest dune we could see. The view was beautiful but there was a larger dune, a few dunes over that blocked the horizon so Jenny saiid we needed to climb that one too. The view from there was breathtaking so we plopped ourselves down and just took it all in; that is until the inner child in Jenny came out and she proceeded to slide down the dune – feet first then backwards and then she rolled down the dune log-style, delighting in its softness and beauty.

And just as the sun was setting in the west, the moon was rising in the east – truly spectacular.

We sat around the fire for a bit waiting for the rest of the guests to return, and I had a hardy laugh when I learned the Jeep driver got stuck and had to abandon his vehicle; maybe Rashid should have had me driven!