Aug 10 – Wait…what?
Another rainy morning with cloud layers so low we felt like we could reach out and touch them. We enjoyed a rather leisurely morning, sipping coffee and eating oatmeal and cereal for breakfast
We left around 10:00, giving ourselves plenty of time to check in for our six hour wildlife cruise through Kenai Fjord National Park with Major Marine. As we got closer to Seward there was more blue sky visible and by the time we arrived there was more blue than clouds! Yay, I thought. We are going to have a fantastic day for the boat ride. But, as I was waiting to check in, I overheard one of the agents talking about 14 foot waves and 30 knot winds. Wait…what? When I reached the desk and asked her if she was talking about today’s forecast she said yes, and they were suggesting everyone take dramamine.
When I approached Jenny and Billy with the forecast, Billy quickly shot me down as, “not happening!” I will agree that 14 foot waves and 30 knot winds on open seas did not sound overly appealing.
We walked along the harbor and began putting a new plan into motion.
We decided we would head out to the only spot that has vehicle access to Kenai Fjords National Park to check out Exit Glacier. We discussed hiking the Harding Icefield Trail, a grueling 4 mile trek to the end that climbs 1,000 feet per mile, estimated to take 6-8 hours. But once up there you have views of the entire Harding Icefield.
So with our plan in place we decided that first off we needed sustenance. Choice #1 closed, choice #2 Billy rejected, Choice #3, a creperie, was open but the kitchen was backed up and we had a bit of a wait. Turned out the wait was worth it as the food was delicious and the lady who owned it was very interesting, having raised 30 kids! And she had been a swim coach and coached Lydia Jacoby’s swim coach – Lydia is from Seward. We loved seeing all the signs everywhere cheering her on and congratulating her – such an amazing story!
Our first views of Exit Glacier from a viewpoint along the highway, were amazing, looking far across a rocky floodplain to the glacier pouring down over the tops of the mountains.
As we began the trek, Jenny said she didn’t know if she was mentally prepared for it, still suffering from her cold (we covid tested her again), and feeling the beginnings of a headache. Billy said we would just go as far as we wanted then turn around, I said if we had no plans on getting to the top then we should just take another trail where we could actually see the glacier as this trail was in the trees. Billy said we should stick to the plan.
Fifteen minutes in and we peeled a layer, ten minutes later we peeled a second layer, another ten minutes and we were down to our final layers. We had dressed for cold windy weather and to be out on a boat, Billy didn’t have his hiking shoes on, I had on polartec fleece pants and only Jenny was dressed for the conditions we were in. About .75 miles up the trail, huffing and puffing from the climb and our hefty packs, Billy said he was out and we were headed back. “Oh no we are not. I didn’t just kick my ass to not even get a glimpse of the glacier up close. I am going the next 3/4 miles to the first viewpoint. You can turnaround,” I said. And so on we trudged- up, up, up, and it wasn’t just incline it was like stair stepping up the rocks. But once we reached Marmot Meadows the views were incredible of not only the glacier but of the valley.
We took a long rest and when I suggested we should try to get to the next viewpoint another mile up, Jenny was game but Billy flat out rejected it. The skies were almost completely clear, the views would have been incredible but we headed back down. At the time I thought it was the right decision, all for one, but in hindsight Jenny and I should have gone; she was game and this was her trip.
Pulling out of the jam-packed parking lot we got a good chuckle at the fact that in almost any other national park there would be license plates from just about all 50 states represented. In Alaska? Only two were from outside of Alaska! There were also a handful of U-Hauls, a result of the car rental shortage that is happening- desperate times call for desperate measures, so they say!
After our hike we stopped for a well earned gelato and then took a few detours down either side of Resurrection Bay, as far as we could drive on each side. We parked the car down at Lowell Point and walked out onto the black sand beach- a true beach. The day had cleared completely and we were finally able to see the true majesty of where we were.
Jenny asked me if I thought this was the prettiest place we had ever been, and now seeing it in all its glory I said, “We have seen a lot of mountains in all our travels, but none of them were as grand as this.” She turned and said, “Well, I think it is the most beautiful place we have ever been. There. I said it! Even more beautiful than Switzerland!”
I told her I was so happy to hear her say that because when we rebooked Alaska Jenny had no plans to go to Switzerland but an unexpected opportunity came up and she spent a week in Switzerland hiking the gorgeous Alps; so I had been concerned that Alaska would not be as awe inspiring to her after that but apparently I was dead wrong!
We made one last stop on our return to the cabin, at the Bear Creek fish weir that sometimes the bears hang out at. Unfortunately, there were no bears but we were entertained watching the trout trying to jump the waterfall.
We also got to talking with a young guy from Germany who had gone to Mexico and spent the required 14 days there so he could get into the US. He had planned on hiking 1500 miles of the Pacific Crest Trail but had only gotten around 800 when it was closed due to the Dixie Fire so he decided to switch plans and come to Alaska for the remainder of his time. We gave him a ride back to the highway junction, wished him well and then headed to the cabin.
The setting this evening was perfection. Clear blue skies and not a breath of air, so I decided to take full advantage of it by getting a fire going in the fire pit. Billy barbecued dinner and then went to bed while Jenny and I stayed up sitting at the fire pit until well past 10:00 enjoying the beautiful sunset, roasting marshmallows and talking. She was clearly disappointed we didn’t try for the top today. I promised her if the weather holds out I will go back and do the full hike with her tomorrow.
Wandering Amerrickans 